“All these problems were happening in my life, and the only time I felt really good was when I was surfing,” Shane Dorian says in the somber opening solo...
The full-length version of J.D. Kleinke's review in the current print edition of The Surfers Journal(Oct 2018) Name-dropping in the lineup is always a risky move, especially if the...
There’s No Crying in Surfing: New Film Revisits the Complicated Legacy of Andy Irons One of the now standard shots in adventure film is to start with a solitary...
My Andy Irons piece just went live on The Inertia, at https://tinyurl.com/ydcu5x2d If you’re curious for more, here's the trailer … https://www.tetongravity.com/films/andy-irons-kissed-by-god Fourteen weeks after seeing the movie, this feels...
The American West is a blank canvas. It is a vault of sky, an infinity of light, a sun-blanched stage bounded by horizon stretching wide enough to show the...
Requiem for the Dream: Remembering Warren Miller Published in Freeskier, February 8, 2018 It was his signature line, usually delivered after a final, rapid-fire sequence of people flying through snow...
This post originally appeared in The Huffington Post on February 15, 2016. HALF MOON BAY, CALIFORNIA — Despite a regulatory requirement to develop a plan to include women surfers,...
This story is from Banjo Lessons, my first (unpublished) novel. I wrote it in 1986, when I was 24 years old, and the countryside, farmscapes, and historic small towns...