Snow Melting into Music

“All these problems were happening in my life, and the only time I felt really good was when I was surfing,” Shane Dorian says in the somber opening solo...

Hot off the presses. My review of RC Shaw's surf memoir, Lousibourg or Bust, is in the reviews section in the back, page 123. And because this is a...

Three days short of twenty-five years ago, I was working late as usual, so I didn’t hear the news until I got into my truck and turned on the...

The full-length version of J.D. Kleinke's review in the current print edition of The Surfers Journal(Oct 2018) Name-dropping in the lineup is always a risky move, especially if the...

There’s No Crying in Surfing: New Film Revisits the Complicated Legacy of Andy Irons One of the now standard shots in adventure film is to start with a solitary...

My Andy Irons piece just went live on The Inertia, at https://tinyurl.com/ydcu5x2d If you’re curious for more, here's the trailer … https://www.tetongravity.com/films/andy-irons-kissed-by-god Fourteen weeks after seeing the movie, this feels...

The American West is a blank canvas. It is a vault of sky, an infinity of light, a sun-blanched stage bounded by horizon stretching wide enough to show the...

Requiem for the Dream: Remembering Warren Miller Published in Freeskier, February 8, 2018 It was his signature line, usually delivered after a final, rapid-fire sequence of people flying through snow...

This post originally appeared in The Huffington Post on February 15, 2016. HALF MOON BAY, CALIFORNIA — Despite a regulatory requirement to develop a plan to include women surfers,...

This story is from Banjo Lessons, my first (unpublished) novel. I wrote it in 1986, when I was 24 years old, and the countryside, farmscapes, and historic small towns...